Alpine Hailstorms in Ausangate

A 4 hour bus from Cusco to Tinki followed by a 1 hour taxi to Upis Campground saw us cutting tracks at 10am with many layers of clothing, a tent, and 5 days of food on our backs. With the 4,400m starting elevation too, we were puffing from the third step in, motivated by the thought of the hot pools waiting for us at the other end of these 5 days. 

We stopped in at Upis Q’ocha for a quick lunch before continuing up to our first (and lowest) pass. 

Upon reaching the pass and high point of the day, a mere 2 hours in to our 5 day hike, we were confronted by a hailstorm that pelted us with ice and turned our surroundings from green to white. With the forecast predicting this to be one of the more pleasant days, we did consider turning around.

We continued onwards though and soon enough as quickly as it arrived the storm passed. The rest of the day was a mix of cloudy and rainy, finishing with an hour in a worn down shelter waiting for a gap in the weather to set up our tent. 

Eventually it cleared and stayed dry the rest of the evening, allowing us some time to wander around and appreciate where we were.

After an overcast evening, we woke the next morning to calm, cool, and clear skies. We ate breakfast patiently waiting for the sun to rise from behind Nevado Ausangate and heat the shadow cast over us. As we waited we were greeted by our first local farmer who asked for a modest 15PEN each fee which we were happy to pay, especially given the shelter. He invited us for a hot drink in his hut on our way out though we were too slow so by the time we arrived he was out fixing his water race from Alpaca damage. We did farewell him on our way past as he noted our brown tea teeth (I didn’t think they were that brown).

We continued on and began our climb to our second pass at 4,900m. The climb was steep and unrelenting with some added effort pathfinding as we attempted to follow a shortcut shown on the gpx track we had downloaded. The weather couldn’t have been better though, a stark contrast to the day before.

We reached the top knackered but with stunning views. As we collapsed on the ground, we began to feel the effects of the altitude getting to us and our stomachs. As the effects only worsened, I managed to forget to get a pic of the view though we did get a phone snap as a return gesture of two Germans approached us to take photos of them.

We made our way down a while before discovering we had been going the wrong way and had to traverse back across the slope up another valley. Our bodies did start feeling better as we declined though we had already begun planning a route out for fear of worse weather and sickness in the days to come. We eventually settled on a shorter day today with a reassessment in the morning pending how we felt. 

Our camp this night was on another farmers land (20PEN each) with an impressive view down the valley of many colours. We set up our tent upon arrival with a quick lunch to follow before the clouds rolled over and the rain started falling. Without a shelter here, we retreated to the tent for a number of hours until the rain receded and we ventured out again for food - our standard dinner of tuna and 2 minute noodles. Kenzie had the insight in the supermarket to carefully select her flavours though I regrettably managed to pick at random 4 of the most spicy kinds, not what you need for a sensitive stomach in the altitude.

As the sun set about 6pm we brushed our teeth and got back in our sleeping bags dressed in more clothes than we had hiked in.

We woke to the pattering of snow on our 3 season tent with now very damp sides. After waiting a while for it to stop we eventually gave up, packed up what we could inside, and ventured out for breakfast in the snow, the hills around us now white. 

With our bodies feeling better though still anxious of the weather and our energy levels, we opted to skip the detour to Rainbow Mountain and instead focus our efforts on completing the circuit around Ausangate. 

This day started flat as we traversed the valley towards our third pass with the skies clearing as we walked. 

After a quick stop and 15PEN payment to our third farmer (this time simply for crossing his land) we began the ascent to the high point of the circuit at 5,100m. Though we weren’t by any means rapid, on this third day we had finally found our groove, climbing steadily and without any crook stomachs.

The way down was steep, following the valley as the clouds lifted to reveal Ausangate behind us.

After reaching the bottom of one valley, we turned left to walk up another. We only had to climb a mere 150m over 4km to reach our camp for the night but as the rain started bucketing down, that final 4km felt like an eon. 

To our delight, organic maps had again been correct with the location of a shelter, or in this case a “holiday cottage” which was indeed quite upmarket for its location with flushing toilets! Our French friends we had been leapfrogging all day had beat us here and were tactically setting up their Mountain Warehouse (yes from NZ) in the shelter. They offered us the space next to them though the ground was less appealing than the hay they had and so we opted for the uncovered field instead. A farmer eventually came by to collect his 20PEN a head, the same price we paid the night before with zero facilities!

We set up our tent after the rain had stopped before cooking our noodles and tuna for dinner as our friends told stories of their year in NZ including the many alpine sites their Mountain Warehouse tent had been. 

Soon after the sun had set and as we were brushing our teeth about to get in bed, the heavens opened up and started bucketing down without warning. After waiting a little while hoping it would appease just a bit, we gave in and ran the 10m to our tent, arriving drenched. I think I’m safe in saying this moment, getting into our damp sleeping bags inside our damp tent wearing our damp polypros and puffers, was Kenzie’s low point of the hike and almost enough to put her off camping altogether.

The morning after though was quite the contrast with mostly clear skies and impressive views of the montañas surrounding us, including the mighty Pacchanta (5,950m) at the top of the valley. This start would prove to be a sign of things to come as we enjoyed pleasant weather the entire day, as if rewarding us for making it through the punishment dealt by the weather gods over the previous 3 days.

The climb to our fourth and final pass was gradual and provided endless scenes in every direction of rugged peaks with fresh dustings of white. In fact this whole day provided a stunning variety of views and I think some of the most impressive. Aided perhaps with the ill feelings and uncertainty of days 1 and 2 well and truly behind us as we stormed this final climb. 

We arrived to the small town of Pacchanta and picked the nicest looking hostel for a price of 25PEN (12NZD) each including a hot pool! Best value stay of our trip.

Without a kitchen here and with another days of food rations left, dinner this night was again noodles and tuna cooked in our room on the same gas stove as the three nights prior. Breakfast the following morning was again oats and coffee before we caught a taxi to Tinki and bus to Cusco.

My favourite trek in South America so far despite the weather. Though I’d normally require a swim to rate so highly, the stunning variety of views well and truly made up for it as well as the lack of people on the track (I think we only saw two other non-local pairs).

Lucas

Apr 19, 2025